How to Fix a Washing Machine: 6 Common Issues

Not sure why your washing machine isn’t running as it should? In this article, we looked at 6 malfunctions of such units that occur most frequently. The text explains why the equipment leaks or buzzes so much during service, because the water does not pump in/out or does not warm up.

We take into consideration both “easy” breakdowns, which were the product of natural causes, and problems that occurred because of worn pieces.

Read on to find out why the washing machines have broken down and how to determine the breakdown by yourself. The article also discusses when the user do it yourself repair washing machine and when it is worth calling a workshop.

#1 – The washing machine does not draw water to the drum.

If a washing machine (for example, LG FH0B8LD0) does not pump water, and the owner of the equipment cannot determine what the matter is, it is not necessary to call a diagnostic wizard immediately. You can inspect the device on your own.

Natural Reasons

• There’s no water in the plumbing. It happens that the owner programmed a timer to wash, but the water was turned off. It’s easy to check-just turn on the tap in your bathroom or kitchen. If there’s no water in it, it means that repair work is underway nearby, and you just need to wait until it’s finished. You’ll need to stop the program and turn off the device until the water flows. If the things in the machine are slightly damp at the same time, they need to be removed so that there is no unpleasant smell. There is some water left in the drum or tank-the drain mode will help.
• Weak pressure-because of this, the washer pumps water very slowly, so it doesn’t seem to get into the tank at all. You can see if this is the reason in the same way as in the first option-open the tap. If the water flows poorly, there’s a problem with the pressure and you’re going to have to wait.
• The feed valve is not fully open – it must be turned to the maximum “open” position.
• The water supply hose is squashed. This is especially true if the machine is built into a curbstone or rack. If there is complete order with pressure and a tap, it is worth looking for the reason in the technique itself.

Water is not collected as a result of breakage

• The door is not properly closed. If the hatch of the unit (e.g. Zanussi ZWSE 680V) does not close properly, it is a lock. The failure of the guide is a frequent consequence of prolonged and active surgery. The problem may lie hidden in a broken mechanism that blocks the door. It’s worth unlocking the lock through the lid or with a rope to get things. Further-the master’s work. How to check if it’s all in order with the lock? When closing the lid, a special click should be made. A notification is shown on the smart car screen that the door is locked.
• The filter is blocked. To eliminate the problem, the water supply to the washer must be switched off, the hose must be disconnected and the filling valve grid must be checked. Place a bowl or bucket under the hose before disconnecting, so as not to flood the neighbors. The filtration of dirt and rust is easy to clean. The main weapon is a good pressure of running water and a needle for hard-to-reach locations. Remove the mesh with the pins and rinse under the tap for a thorough cleaning.
• The winding with which the valve is fitted has been overheated. You’re going to need to change it in this case.
• The sensor of water is broken. The sensor is triggered by an air pressure flowing through the tube. Information on the setting of the pressure force is provided on the equipment body or in the documentation. In order to check the work of the part, it is necessary to connect a rubber or silicone tube of the same length and diameter instead of a hose. Then-Blow it: if the clicks are heard, then the contact springs are working. Remember: before checking the washing machine, it must be turned off, otherwise the heating element will overheat.
• Broken program-“heart” of the washing machine. This is decided by the workshop. There is, of course, a possibility of using a liquid syringe designed to clean up contacts, but these actions can lead to both the removal of carbon deposits from contacts and the complete breakdown of the programmer.

#2 – After washing, the machine does not spin the laundry

If the wrong mode is selected, the washer (even one as powerful as the LG FH0B8WD7) will not squeeze it out. After the cycle, it is only necessary to start a further spin. Alternatively, stop the program and choose the one that involves the subsequent spinning of the laundry.

The second natural reason is that the revs are too low. If the user has programmed the technique to a minimum, the laundry will remain damp and it will appear that the washing machine has not been used.

But most of the reasons that spinning does not work for washing equipment are due to malfunctions of the “internals” of the device:

Overloading and lack of balance

The problem arises when the equipment does not have a sensor to detect the imbalance. If there is too much content in the drum or if the item is too heavy (the recommended load weight is exceeded), it simply cannot be removed. The solution to this problem is simple-take half of the laundry, spread the rest evenly over the drum and try again.

Distribution of laundry uneven

This reason is similar to the first one, but occurs when the user loads too many long-leg/sleeve clothes. During the washing process, it gathers into a large lump that cannot normally be squeezed out. You will need to drain the water, and then spread the contents of the drum evenly and start spinning again.

Filter or drain valve not working

Water does not leave the tank at the right time, which blocks spinning. The reason is a clogged drain filter. It is located at the bottom of the washing machine behind a removable panel or lid. The exact location of the component is indicated in the instructions for the specific model.

The part to be filtered must be checked for foreign matter and cleaned. To do this, the washing machine is disconnected from the mains, a bowl is placed under the filter to collect water and carefully removed. If the valve is dirty, you will need to clean the tube and / or pipe.

Important: The filtering part is most often clogged if the user forgets to check the pockets before loading into the drum, and they contain receipts from stores, coins and other small things. They enter the drain hose and then into the filter.

Washing Machine Issue : The tachometer

This is the device responsible for controlling the number of revolutions, depending on the program selected and the weight of the laundry loaded. The tachometer breaks down due to frequent overloads, loosening of fastening, defective contact and wiring. Weakened fastening can be “tightened up,” it is better to entrust the solution of the wiring problem to a specialist, but if the problem is directly in the tachometer, it will have to be changed.

Control module malfunction

The control panel, which is programmed to perform functions that have separate settings for a certain mode of operation, stops sending commands to the drum. This is not the case when it is worth trying to “reanimate” the technique yourself.

Engine malfunction

A common problem with long-term operation. The fault occurs both in the hardware of the engine and in the “brushes” that wear out over time. The “brushes” must be replaced, but you’re going to have to disassemble the washer body for this (for example, on Bosch WAW32640EU , the manufacturer produces components for several years after the equipment is discontinued). You should entrust the job to the repairman if you want to play it safely.

#3 – Why the heating element does not heat the water

If the water is not heated in the washing machine, the problem is hidden in a broken heating element or a wiring fault. The wires in most machines (not the exception, and the Indesit BWA 71253 EU) are located close to the case: over time, the wiring is broken by vibrations that are generated by technology. You’re going to have to solder the damaged sections of the wire, but it’s better to replace them with new ones.

Common Causes

• Heating element malfunction. To check the condition of the washer element that heats the water for washing, you need to ring the tester. If the heating element is broken, it needs to be changed. It’s not hard to do it yourself. You will need to remove the back “wall” of the machine, for example, Candy CSS4 1372D3 / 1-S (the unit must be disconnected from the power supply), then loosen the fasteners of the installed part, dismantle it and install a new one. When replacing, you need to be careful not to damage the case of the washing machine.
• Scale. Sometimes the heating element starts to work weaker due to the formed scale. It is enough to get the part and clean it. To avoid this in the future, it is recommended to use special softeners or install an additional water filter.

• Faulty relay or programmer. It is better to entrust the repair and replacement of these components to the master.
• Broken heating sensor. This element tells the “control” module when to start the heating element. If the sensor is broken, it will have to be replaced.
• The water level sensor is broken. A blockage in the tube leads to breakage (it is not difficult to clean it) or it is a matter of wear – then you need to make a replacement.

#4 – The machine does not drain water after washing

Is the water left in the washer (e.g. Gorenje WEI74S3B) after the end of the cycle? There are four reasons for this:

1. A program failure – often due to a power outage – is resolved by a restart. First, the program is canceled urgently: the device is disconnected from the outlet and switched on again after five minutes. Another way is to change the program to the shortest one. For example, turn on the “rinse + spin” mode or quick wash. If it doesn’t help, you need to call the master.
2. Filter worn out. To check the condition of the filter, you must first drain the water using the door located in the lower corner of the unit. This procedure should be performed carefully, having previously prepared a container for draining water so as not to flood the room. If the filter is clogged, it should be cleaned or replaced.

   

3. The hose is worn out – you will have to replace the part. If it looks intact, it is worth checking to see if the sewer pipe or siphon is clogged. To do this, disconnect the hose, hang it in the sink and turn on the water drain mode. If it flows out normally, then the problem is in the sewer itself.
4. The pump is not working properly. If you can’t hear how it works or, on the contrary, it functions too loudly, then it is broken. Perhaps it is clogged. To determine the exact cause, you need to take out the pump and see if hair and threads are wound around the shaft. If so, remove them and put the pump back on. If the part is clean, but the tester shows that no voltage is supplied to it, the element will have to be replaced.

   

#5 – Washing machine Issue : Device leaks

If the washing machine of the “automatic” type has leaked, first you need to find out where the liquid is flowing from. It can flow from below, or it can pour out of the hatch. This is usually caused by damage to the washer parts.

Classic reasons

• The most common reason a device leaks is a hose problem (eg Bosch WAN 28260 BY ). In the event of a breach at the docking point, the problem is resolved by replacing the gasket. If the cause is a damaged hose, the hose should be replaced.
• The tank is damaged-in this case, you cannot do it without replacing the components. You need to inspect the bottom of the device to identify the problems in the tank. You’ll need a pocket torch or a keychain option like the King Camp LED 1. You can find where the machine is leaking by following the water trail. If the washing unit is loaded vertically, you will need to remove the part of the case on the side.
• The oil seal is out of order-in this case, it is worth looking at the tank and the location of the bearings. If they are worn out, they will have to be replaced, just like the oil seal.
• Damaged branch pipe for filling the tank-a loosening of the fixing in the place where the parts are connected. Epoxy is needed to rebuild the fasteners. To do this, you need to disassemble the pipe, dry it, remove the residues of the glue, and then apply “epoxy” or moisture-resistant glue to fix the part at the same place during installation.
• The problem is in the drain pipe-it is recommended that the element be replaced after removing the top cover of the washing machine body (for example, Bosch WLG24160BY ).
• The drain pump is being worn out-it is also being replaced.
• The tightness of the hatch was broken-the “aged” cuff. The breakage is repaired by a rubber patch that is glued to a waterproof glue. For strength, it is recommended that the retaining clamps be removed and the repaired part be repositioned to the top of the patch.
• The dispenser is faulty: the “hopper” (powder filling cavity) is clogged or the water supply capacity is increased, the water inlet valve is broken. If the problem is in the “bunker” or the meter compartment, the parts need to be cleaned if they are in the valve.

#6 – The washer makes extraneous sounds: rattles, hums, holds together, whistles

If you hear loud sounds when a machine (for example, a quiet Bosch WLG 20260 BY ) erases or drains, this is caused by malfunctions or minor errors in application.

Washing machine Issue : makes a lot of noise

1. There is no balance. Uneven distribution of the laundry during the wash process causes noisy operation. The problem often arises with old models of equipment, in which there is no balance control function. Clothes entangled by the rotation of the drum put a load on a certain part of it, causing difficulty in movement, which causes a characteristic knock. The solution is to arrange things evenly in the drum.
2. Errors when installing the washing machine – improperly installed equipment makes a knock and “bounces” at high speeds when vibrating: especially loud noise when draining water or spinning. The position will be corrected by a silicone support (for example, anti- vibration mounts Electrolux E4WHPA02 ) or a special mat that creates an anti-vibration barrier.
3. The shock absorber or spring is worn out. Parts such as the drum and tub in washing machines (for example, in the Zanussi ZWSG7101VS ) hang on springs with shock absorbers. They control imbalance and vibration severity. The load on the parts of the supporting mechanism during the operation of the equipment is quite strong, so these parts eventually deteriorate and require replacement.

   

4. The counterweight or attachments are damaged – the load, installed above and below the tank, to limit its “swinging” during washing, eventually “breaks”, and then it must be replaced. Easier – if the mount is loose. In this case, tighten the bolts.
5. Drum beat. Often the drum knocks when foreign objects fall into it, which are left in the pockets of clothes. It is better to wash clothes with large buttons turned inside out beforehand, as large-sized accessories can also knock on the drum. It is recommended to load clothes with a zipper into the washing machine only in a buttoned state so that the “dog” does not come off.

Most of washing machines issue, which are presented in the article, can be eliminated simply: the user of the device can work with it on his own. Sometimes it is enough to clean the parts intended for filtration, increase the water pressure or organize the stability of the device using pads or a special mat. In difficult situations, you will have to change components and contact repairmen.